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Unplugging in the Catskills

The Catskills are the mountains closest to New York City, a couple of hours up the Thruway on a good day. A big part of them is state forest preserve that can't be logged or built on, which is why it still looks like woods.

The eastern side, near Woodstock and the waterfalls, gets the crowds. Go a little farther west and it turns into farms, small towns and not much traffic.

See them on the map

Where to stay

Woodstock if you want to walk to dinner. Palenville if you want to be near the falls. Windham if you're skiing. Fleischmanns and Stamford if you want to be farther out and don't mind driving to eat.

What to do

Kaaterskill Falls
A two-tier waterfall, one of the tallest in the state, off Route 23A above Palenville. The trail is short but steep. Stay on it; people get hurt going off trail here.
North-South Lake
A state campground on two lakes near the top of the escarpment, with swimming, paddling and trails out to old hotel sites with views over the Hudson Valley.
Overlook Mountain
A long, steady walk up an old road from near Woodstock to a fire tower you can climb. The view from the top covers the Hudson Valley.
Slide Mountain
The highest peak in the Catskills. It's a real hike but not a hard one, with good views from the top.
Esopus Creek
In summer, people float down the creek near Phoenicia in rented tubes. The rest of the year it's a trout stream.
Ashokan Rail Trail
A flat trail on an old rail bed along the Ashokan Reservoir. Easy walking or biking with the mountains across the water.

The towns

Woodstock is the best known and the busiest, with shops, galleries and places to eat. The festival wasn't actually held here, but the town doesn't mind. Phoenicia is small and friendly, right on the Esopus.

Windham and Hunter are ski towns in winter and quiet in summer. Palenville sits at the bottom of Kaaterskill Clove. Out west, Fleischmanns and Roxbury are old resort and farm towns that feel a long way from the city.

Before you go

  • Leaf season weekends are busy. If you can, come midweek.
  • Cell service drops out in the valleys between towns. Download maps before you go.
  • Plan on two to three hours from the city, more on a Friday afternoon.

More places to stay nearby