Unplugging in Stowe and the Mad River Valley
This stretch of the Green Mountains runs from Smugglers' Notch in the north, past Stowe and Waterbury, down to Waitsfield and Warren. Mount Mansfield is the high point, and the Long Trail runs along the ridge the whole way.
Stowe is the busy end, with the big resort, the shops and most of the hotels. The Mad River Valley is slower. Either way you're never more than a few minutes from a trail or a river.
Where to stay
Stay in or near Stowe if you want restaurants and a village to walk around. Go north to Jeffersonville or south to Waitsfield if you'd rather hear nothing at night.
A small inn on Route 100 in Waitsfield with a swimming pond, an outdoor hot tub, a sauna and fire pits. There are rooms in the inn and a few cottages, dogs are welcome, and you can walk out to trails from the property.
An inn and a few cabins in Waterbury, about halfway between Stowe and the Mad River Valley. Some rooms have balconies and the cabin looks out at the mountains. Dogs are allowed.
What to do
- Mount Mansfield
- The highest point in Vermont. You can hike up, or drive the toll road in summer and walk the ridge from there. The top is above treeline, so bring a layer even on a warm day.
- Smugglers' Notch
- A narrow pass between Mansfield and Spruce Peak, with big boulders right next to the road and short hikes off it. The road through the notch closes in winter.
- Stowe Recreation Path
- A paved path of about five miles from the village up the valley along the river. Easy walking or biking, with places to stop and swim in summer.
- The Long Trail
- Vermont's long-distance trail runs the length of the state along the ridge of the Green Mountains. You don't have to do the whole thing. A day hike on any piece of it near here is worth it.
- Mad River Glen
- An old-fashioned ski area near Waitsfield that's owned by its skiers. Snowboards aren't allowed, and the single chair is still running.
- Moss Glen Falls
- A pretty waterfall a short walk off the road north of Stowe village. Good for an hour when you don't feel like a real hike.
The towns
Stowe village is small and walkable, with a white church, a main street and more places to eat than anywhere else around here. The Mountain Road runs from the village up to the ski area, and most of the inns are along it.
Waterbury is where you'll find the Ben and Jerry's factory and Cold Hollow Cider Mill, and not a lot else. Waitsfield and Warren are small villages with a covered bridge or two, a few restaurants and a general store. Jeffersonville, on the north side of the notch, is even quieter.
Before you go
- Stowe gets crowded on foliage weekends and holiday weeks. The Mad River Valley is usually calmer.
- It's about three and a half hours from Boston and around two and a half from Montreal. Burlington is about 40 minutes away.
- Smugglers' Notch Road closes in winter, so check your route if you're staying in Jeffersonville.
More places to stay nearby
First look
New places we find and the odd guide to somewhere quiet. A few emails a year, that's it.


