Analog Escapes
← Vermont

Unplugging in the Northeast Kingdom

The Northeast Kingdom is the name for Vermont's three northeast counties: Orleans, Essex and Caledonia. It's the least crowded part of a state that isn't crowded to begin with. Hill farms, lakes, long dirt roads and a lot of woods.

Nobody comes here for the nightlife. People come to bike, ski, swim in cold lakes and sit on a porch. Cell service drops out in plenty of places, which helps.

See them on the map

Where to stay

Most of the places to stay are small inns and farms. East Burke and Lyndonville are best if you're here to bike or ski. Craftsbury and Barton are quieter and closer to the lakes.

Craftsbury Farmhouse

★ 4.90

Craftsbury, VT

Hot tubHiking trailsNear wilderness
From $221/night · Nov 6–8

A farmhouse inn in Craftsbury with a hot tub, a garden and a bistro and bar on site. Besides the rooms there are a couple of houses and a canvas tent, and it's rated about as high as anything in the state.

What to do

Lake Willoughby
A long, deep lake squeezed between two mountains, Pisgah and Hor. It looks more like a fjord than anything else in Vermont. Swim at either end, or hike up Mount Pisgah for the view down the lake.
Kingdom Trails
A big network of mountain bike trails on private land around East Burke, open to the public for a fee. In winter a lot of it is groomed for fat bikes and snowshoes.
Burke Mountain
A ski area that's usually a lot less crowded than the ones farther south. In summer you can hike up for the view.
Craftsbury Outdoor Center
Known for cross-country skiing in winter and rowing on Great Hosmer Pond in summer. It's a good place to rent gear and try either one.
Crystal Lake State Park
A sandy beach on a clear lake in Barton. Nice on a hot afternoon.

The towns

St. Johnsbury is the biggest town, which isn't saying much. It has the Fairbanks Museum and the Athenaeum, an old library with an art gallery. Lyndonville is a few miles north.

East Burke is a tiny village that fills up with bikers in summer. Craftsbury Common is a village green with white houses around it and not much else, and that's the appeal. Barton is a small lake town with a couple of places to eat.

Before you go

  • Cell service is spotty. Download maps before you go, and don't count on your phone for directions.
  • Gas stations and restaurants can be far apart and close early. Eat when you can.
  • It's about three to three and a half hours from Boston and around two from Montreal. Plan on two nights at least.