Unplugging on Torch Lake and the Chain of Lakes
The Chain of Lakes is a string of lakes and small rivers in Antrim County, northeast of Traverse City. Water runs from one lake to the next, through Bellaire and Torch Lake and Elk Lake, and finally out into Grand Traverse Bay at Elk Rapids.
Torch Lake is the big one. It's 19 miles long, deep and so clear that the shallows look Caribbean blue. Most of the shore is cottages and woods, and at night it's dark and quiet.
Where to stay
Bellaire is the town in the middle of the chain, with a main street and a couple of places to eat. The shores of Torch Lake are quieter. If you want to be closer to Traverse City, stay on the east bay.
A handful of lodges in Bellaire with a hot tub and a sauna. It sits on the water, with kayaks, fishing and trails, and it has a perfect score from guests.
Central Lake, MI
Hot tubKayak & canoeFishing
Usually from $526/night · Reopens by Jul 2027A small bed and breakfast on Torch Lake with a beach, kayaks and a hot tub. There's a fireplace inside, a fire pit outside and books and games for rainy days.
What to do
- Paddle the chain
- You can canoe or kayak from lake to lake along the rivers that connect them. Pick a short stretch, like the Grass River or the Torch River, for an easy afternoon.
- Grass River Natural Area
- Boardwalks and trails through the wetlands along the Grass River, between Lake Bellaire and Clam Lake. Good for birds and a slow walk.
- Torch Lake
- Swim off a dock, paddle along the shore or just look at the color of the water. It's deep and cold in the middle, warmer in the shallows by late summer.
- Sand Lakes Quiet Area
- A patch of state forest east of Williamsburg where motors aren't allowed. Trails loop past a handful of small lakes, and you'll likely have them to yourself.
- Vasa Pathway
- A long loop of trails through the state forest east of Traverse City. Walk or bike it in summer, and ski it in winter when it's groomed.
The towns
Bellaire is the county seat of Antrim County, a small town with a main street, a courthouse and a brewery. Elk Rapids sits where the chain meets the bay, with a harbor and a beach.
Central Lake and Alden are even smaller. Traverse City is 30 to 45 minutes away for groceries, restaurants and anything else you forgot.
Before you go
- Summer weekends on Torch Lake get busy with boats. Come midweek or after Labor Day for the quiet.
- Bring or rent a kayak. The lakes are the whole point.
- It's about four hours from Detroit and five from Chicago. Plan on two nights at least.
First look
New places we find and the odd guide to somewhere quiet. A few emails a year, that's it.